Burgundy Rising with Camille Thiriet
Camille Thiriet, Comblanchien
Today I am pleased to introduce you all to a new up-and-comer in Burgundy, micro-negociants Camille Thiriet and Matt Chittick. Founded in 2016, the young duo have been vinifying wines out of a small garage space directly across the historic landmark of Château de Comblanchien in the rural farming town of Comblanchien. That same landmark signifies their label.
At the core of their inception has been slow and purposeful grape growing and wine making. Everything they do is by definition artisan. Camille favors hands-on wine making practices like using a proportion of whole-bunches, buckets for pump overs, foot stomping, slow and gentle vertical basket pressing with no inputs and use of native yeasts. All bottles are hand labeled and wax dipped. Production is minuscule as most bottlings are limited to a barrel or two of each wine.
Each vintage, Camille is finding her stylistic edge but the wines all improve year-to-year despite the recent challenges Burgundy has faced. What is also just as impressive is the pooling community to empower each other to produce better wines. Camille and Matt welcome the likes of ex-Domaine de la Romanee-Conti winemaker Bernard Noblet and Domaine Dujac's Jeremy Seysses to help during harvest which is quite impressive and also demonstrates the potential these powerhouses see in their efforts.
Some insight to some of Camille and Matt's holdings (from their site)...
BURGUNDY CHARDONNAY “Confidential Cuvee”
The name of the vintage refers to its size. A very confidential production. Only five barrels were produced in 2022. The 80-year old vines are located in Puligny Montrachet.
Both fermentations are done in barrels, 20% new, with very little added sulfur.
Fresh and floral wine with a round mid-palate and a lemony finish.
VEZELAY VILLAGE “Vervin Fields”
This plot is located in the town of Tharoiseau,opposite Vézelay. It is a small hill which can be
compared to the hill of Corton facing east. 25-year old vines which is worked organically.
Both fermentations (alcoholic and malolactic) are done in barrels, 20% new. The barrels are assembled in stainless steel vats a month and a half before bottling.
The wine is fresh, very citrus, with a nice roundness in the mid-palate and saline finish.
BURGUNDY RED “The Whites”
A single barrel and a slip were produced in 2022 (450 bottles) from this very small vineyard called “Les Blanches” located in Pommard on a medium slope, just above the village. This vineyard was purchased by Camille and Matt in 2015. The vines are 75 years old and farmed organically. All soil treatments (ploughing, weeding) being carried out by a horse (Vega).
The name of the vineyard “Les Blanches” refers to the high proportion of limestone in the soil giving it a white appearance. The vines produce very small yields (15hl/Ha, smaller yield than a Grand Cru 35hl/Ha) with very small berries, thick skins, and very little juice.
On the vinification side, pumping over with a bucket, sometimes crushing, also very little sulfur and a year of aging in barrels. The 2022 vintage was aged in mostly neutral French oak barrels to preserve the purity of the fruit. Fermentation lasted 14 days with 40% whole-bunches. The nose is very expressive with notes of fresh cherry and white pepper. This wine must be opened at least one hour before tasting it. The complex and structured palate often places it above its appellation.
COTE-DE-NUITS VILLAGES “In the Mountains”
50-year old vines located in Comblanchien. This is a very beautiful plot of Premier Cru quality since it is located mid-slope. There is only 25cm of earth before reaching the bedrock, located on a very beautiful clay-limestone terroir.
Only 20% new barrels to better preserve the purity of the fruit and not mask the terroir with 30% whole-bunches. The wine was raised in four 228L neutral barrels and a prototype 336-liter cigar barrel. Nose of crushed raspberry, a touch of spice. The palate is round and fruity with nice tannins that provide a nice length in the mouth.
The 2022's are a bright success compared to the 2021's. There is a great density to the wines that was missing in the previous vintage as well as a real pedigree of fruit and excellent winemaking from these humble vineyards.
The wines...
Camille Thiriet (Pre-Arrival)
Blancs
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvee Confidentielle - WA 89
"The 2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvee Confidentielle bursts with aromas of pear, toasted nuts and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate that's rich but bright, concluding with a saline finish." - William Kelley, Oct. 19, 2023
2022 Bourgogne Vezelay Champs Cervin - JM 90
"30 year old organic vines in Tharoiseau. The vineyard is Champ Cervin as usual but may be missing on the label this year (I have left it in for the moment). Fresh yellow fruit with energy. Plums and pears plus a saline touch. Camille’s Vezelay definitely has its own personality and a little sucrosity too." Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted: December 2023 - Jasper Morris
Rouge
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Chagniots - WA 90
"From a parcel located below the Domaine d'Ardhuy in Corgoloin, the 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Les Chaignots offers up aromas of sweet cherries, berries and red fruit compote, followed by a medium-bodied, supple and easy palate that's pure, lively and charmingly demonstrative. This new cuvée was vinified with 40% whole bunch." - William Kelley, Oct. 19, 2023
2022 Cote de Nuits-Villages Aux Montagnes - WA 92, JM 91
"One of the highlights of the range is the 2022 Côte de Nuits-Villages Aux Montagnes from this higher-altitude site, characterized by dense clay rich in limestone fragments, overlooking the village of Comblanchien. Offering up aromas of red berries, rose petals, warm spices and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and precise, with a bright spine of acidity and a mouthwateringly mineral finish." - William Kelley, Oct. 19, 2023
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Blanches - WA 89
"The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Les Blanches is also attractive, exhibiting aromas of sweet, plummy red fruits, licorice and spices, followed by a medium-bodied, lively palate." - William Kelley, Oct. 19, 2023
2022 Cote de Nuits-Villages La Montagne - WA 91, JM 91
"One of the new Domaine vineyards from Corgoloin, not to be confused with Aux Montagnes in Comblanchien. Mid slope on light clay. Clear crimson purple. A very elegant pure raspberry nose. Super perfume here, fine acidity, a little more tension perhaps, a fresh acidity at the back, with similar length. Hard to separate the two." Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: December 2023 - Jasper Morris
2022 Cote de Nuits-Villages Les Retraits - JM 92 5 STARS
"100% whole bunch as is her norm for this cuvee. Normally Les Retraits opens up early but this year is more reserved. Peppers and strawberries. What an exceptional depth of fruit below, with a lovely thread of mineral acidity. The stems don’t dominate, amazingly, while the fruit surges back gloriously at the finish. This vineyard should be Grand Cru reiterates Camille!" Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: December 2023 - Jasper Morris
As production is tiny, so is our allocation. I hope to offer these wines to you in advance of the rest of Burgundy collectors as they are catching fire in Burgundy but have had very little traction in the states due to small allocations and rare sightings. I encourage you to grab some of these very serious and quite enjoyable bottles become they are unobtainable.
Orders which include wines marked PRE-ARRIVAL that are combined with in stock items will be available for shipping/collection once all items have arrived at our warehouse. If you place an order it may be held for more favorable shipping weather. If you would like to discuss expedited shipping options just contact us. Orders are automatically insured for $100, you can add additional insurance at checkout. Automatically receive a discounted ground shipping rate when you order a full case of 12 bottles (mix and match - 750ml only). Shipping promotion not valid for combination with previous orders. Pricing for this offer only and not retroactive.
-The Bottle List